Installing Peel and Stick Vinyl Planks

Hey y'all! Welcome to part 2 of my bathroom floor fix - installing the new floor.
Now that I have a beautiful, level surface to work on, it's time to install the new floor!

Now I did chose the cheap route with this floor (ballin' on a budget). But I have to say, you really get out of these what you put into them. If you half ass it, your floor is certainly going to reflect that. So it's very important to take your time and pay attention to details on this! If you do, it's going to turn out spectacular, both aesthetically and in craftsmanship.

Supplies:

• Valspar Concrete Bonding Primer
• Peel & Stick Vinyl
• Utility Knife
• Pencil
• Vacuum and/or Broom
• Rolling Pin
• Paint Roller

STEP 1: Prep

This is the most important step. Make sure the concrete is spotless: dust and debris free. Sweep and vacuum, vacuum and sweep. We want the cleanest surface possible to get the best adhesion from the tiles.

 STEP 2: Layout

Begin by laying out the planks, with the backing still on. This will give you an idea of how the layout of the planks will look in the space. It will also help decide where you want to start. I started on the left hand side underneath the vanity, but the longest wall is an easy place to start as well.

TIP: For the best appearance, run the planks parallel to the longest wall.

Personally, I like the planks to be halved (centered in layout with each other) because I'm OCD and like everything to be perfectly centered. However, thirds is a popular option as well.

STEP 3: Prime

Apply a layer of Valspar Concrete Bonding Primer to the concrete floor. I poured some primer directly onto the concrete then used a roller to spread an even layer over the floor. Let the primer cure according to the package instructions. If you went with Valspar, let it dry for about 45 minutes, or until tacky.

STEP 4: Lay the Floor

SO IMPORTANT: Before we start, look under the planks. If they have directional arrows make sure they are all installed facing the same direction.

Peel the backing off of your first plank and lay it down at whichever point you decided to begin.

TIP: Once the plank is in the correct position, use a rolling pin and your body weight to secure the planks to the floor. They sell weighted rollers if you feel so inclined, but I prefer to save the money and make what I have work.

From there, lay your next plank beginning exactly at the halfway point of the first plank. When laying the next plank, you will want to place the second plank at a 45-degree angle and push very firmly against the first plank as you lay it down to the cement (you can use a 2x4 or long level to "jam" the planks closer once they're down if you want). There should be NO gaps. Then roll - always roll.

Now repeat the pattern, laying the planks in a step pattern as shown above. I laid all of my whole pieces first, then went back and filled in the spaces that needed planks to be cut.

Now when it comes to cutting, take a few tips from someone who had plenty of trial and error. These laminate planks simply need to be cut (or scorn) on the top, then snapped. No need to exhaust yourself trying to cut all the way through.

CUTTING TIPS: 

• Trace complex corners and door frames out using construction paper first for difficult cuts, then use the paper to mark and cut the laminate
• Make sure all cut sides are along the wall and not connecting 2 planks together, this will make sure all planks lay flush together with no gaps
• Use old piece of stick laminate (or a piece you've already needed to cut) to make a perfect cut - you can use a carpenters square to make the line then place the laminate along the line and you can use that as your cutting guide. It stays firmly in place with ease, and that is a savior.

STEP 5: Roll

Roll the entire floor one more time for good measure. This will ensure a good bond between the adhesive on the planks and the cement.

Excuse the toilet in my bathtub, but it deserved a deep cleaning and what better place to do it!

STEP 6: Install Base Shoe or Quarter Round

I used base shoe, one that is mold resistant and already white so I don't have to do any painting. After using the Brad Nailer to attach the shoe molding to the base boards I went back in and filled the holes with with caulk.

Whala! A beautiful new floor :)
I told you - put in the effort and the final product will be incredible.

As always, I'm here to answer any questions!

Until next time, I'm dabblin' DIY.